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Hunting Bullet Guide – 280 Remington

The 280 Remington is based on the 30-06 case necked down to accept 7mm bullets with the shoulder moved forward to prevent chambering in other 30-06 case based cartridges. Remington introduced the 280 Remington in 1957 in their model 740 semi-auto rifle and one year later it was chambered in the Model 725 bolt-action.

Ballistic Coefficient: 0.485
Product Symbol: SBST280
Description: Rapid, controlled expansion. Penetrates thin skin, light muscle and bone. For antelope, deer, black bear.

Rifle Ballistics

Distance (yds)	Muzzle	50	100	200	300	400	500
Velocity (fps)	3040	–	2842	2653	2471	2297	2130
Distance (yds)	Muzzle	50	100	200	300	400	500
Energy (ft. lbs.)	2872	–	2511	2187	1898	1640	1410
Distance (yds)		50	100	150	200	250	300
Short Trajectory (in.)		-0.2	0.0	-0.8	-2.8	-6.0	-10.5
Distance (yds)	100	150	200	250	300	400	500
Long Trajectory (in.)	+1.4	+1.3	0.0	-2.5	-6.3	-18.4	-37.0

140 gr. Supreme® Ballistic Silvertip™

Around 1980 Remington changed the name to the 7mm Express in hopes of increasing the popularity of this fine round. This only caused confusion and didn’t help its popularity so the name was changed back to 280 Remington. Around 1985-86 Remington introduced the “Mountain Rifle” a slim and trim version of the model 700 and included the 280 as one of the initial chamberings along with the 270 Winchester and the 30-06 Springfield. This was a real shot in the arm for the 280 Remington. Finally the company that had introduced the round had chambered it in a modern bolt-action hunting rifle. Since then Remington has introduced the round in several other model 700 configurations, including the BDL, BDL SS, and the Classic in 1997. Other manufactures such as Ruger, Winchester, and more offer the 280 Remington and it seems it is more popular now than ever. In my opinion the 280 Remington has all the advantages of the 270 Winchester and the 30-06 Springfield, incorporating the flat trajectory of the 270 with the power of the 30-06. Being 7mm not only gives the 280 Remington more bullet choices than the 25-06 Remington or the 270 Winchester, but greater range in weights of bullets plus a larger frontal diameter. Which lends to better performance on game larger and heavier than the White-tailed deer. It is also kinder to the shoulder than the 30-06 or 7mm Remington Magnum when fired in a comparable weight rifle. The 280’s real world performance is equal to that of the 7mm Remington Magnum (with 140 to 150-grain bullets). When both cartridges are loaded to maximum, with Reloader 19 powder and using a 140-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip, the 280 is only 150 fps behind the 7mm Remington Magnum, also the 7mm Magnum is only 1.5” flatter in trajectory at 300 yards (based on a 100 yard zero). The 280 Remington holds pace with the magnum and does it with 9-grains less powder and, as mentioned earlier, less recoil and muzzle blast. The first high-powered rifle I ever owned was a 280 Remington in a model 700 “Mountain Rifle” topped with a 6x42mm Leupold scope. This sleek little rifle/scope combo when loaded and sling attached tipped the scales at just over 7 ¼ pounds. This type rifle is ideal for hunting situations where country is rough and covering a lot of ground is the name of the game. Recoil, however is brutal. When chambered in a “full-size” rifle, weighing around 9 pounds with scope, recoil becomes manageable. I believe the 280 Remington is at its best when loaded with bullets weighing between 140 and 165 grains. Federal loads a 150-grain Nosler Partition; this is an outstanding factory load for the 280 Remington. My favorite hand loads consisted of a 140-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip and a 162-grain boat-tailed soft point from Hornady. A maximum charge of IMR 4831 under the 140-grain Ballistic Tip produced the best accuracy. While the Hornady bullet liked a case full of Reloader 19 for its work. The 280 Remington as plenty of power to any North American game when properly loaded, but is most a home with the White-tailed deer and similar game.

Hunting Bullet Guide – 270 Winchester

Winchester introduced the 270 Winchester in 1925 and 44 years later (1969) Remington introduced the 25-06 Remington. Not only is the 270 older its more popular than the 25-06, even so the two cartridges share many similarities. Both are based on the 30-06 Springfield case necked down to accept their respective bullets.

Ballistic Coefficient: 0.433
Product Symbol: SBST270
Description: Rapid, controlled expansion. Penetrates thin skin, light muscle and bone. For antelope, deer, black bear.

Rifle Ballistics

Distance (yds)	Muzzle	50	100	200	300	400	500
Velocity (fps)	3050	–	2828	2618	2416	2224	2040
Distance (yds)	Muzzle	50	100	200	300	400	500
Energy (ft. lbs.)	2685	–	2309	1978	1685	1428	1202
Distance (yds)		50	100	150	200	250	300
Short Trajectory (in.)		-0.2	0.0	-0.8	-2.8	-6.1	-10.7
Distance (yds)	100	150	200	250	300	400	500
Long Trajectory (in.)	+1.4	+1.3	0.0	-2.6	-6.5	-18.9	-38.4

270 Winchester/25-06 Remington

Cases last a long time and hand loading is strait forward just like any other 30-06 case based cartridge, also bullets and factory ammunition are relatively easy to find.

There are more factory offerings for the 270 than the 25-06 and they may be a little easier to find. Both shoot extremely flat and have cleanly taken countless heads of game to earn the reputations they hold as hunting rounds. Now I’ve always heard if don’t have anything good to say about something you shouldn’t say anything at all. Good advice to follow when you are discussing things other that hunting rounds. Personally I’ve never been a big fan of either one of these cartridges. For one simple reason: the bullets. I prefer heavier weight bullets and a larger fontal diameter than what is available for the two calibers. As for the 270 (.277) weights commonly range from 100 to 150 grains, in the 25-06 (.257) from 70 (+/-) to 100 grains for varmints and 100 to 120 grains, for deer size game. A somewhat limited selection when compared to the 7mm and 30 calibers. Secondly, the 25 (.257) and 270 (.277) bullets have smaller frontal diameters than the 7mm (.284) and the 30 cal. (.308). One could argue that this is splitting hairs. After all we are talking about thousandths of and inch, and I would have to agree. However, once the bullet has mushroomed, then the 7mm and the 30 generally have a considerably larger frontal diameter than the 25 or the 270 caliber bullets. Resulting in larger wound channels and exit holes. All that being said both are superb performers on White-tailed deer, Antelope, and similar game. Almost everyone I hunt with uses one of these two rounds for their hunting. I’ve never owned either one but I have hand loaded for and shot quite a few rifles chambered for each cartridge. My good friend and hunting partner “Wild Bill” Pirkle has been using a Remington 700 chambered in 270 Winchester for years. I’ve seen him take everything from Cottontail rabbits up to wild boars weighing well over 300 pounds. It’s hard to argue with that type of accuracy and performance! He uses Winchester’s “Supreme” factory ammo with a 130-grain Ballistic Silver Tip. Anyone looking for good factory load for a 270 Win this is defiantly one to try. The 130-grain seems to be the best weight bullet for accuracy, trajectory, and all around performance on game in the 270 Winchester. I guess when what bullets are offered work; you do not need a large selection to choose from. As for the 25-06 Remington guys, everyone I know seems to be shooting a different load ranging from a 100-grain up to 120-grain bullets. Some of these guys shoot factory and some are hand loading to get the results they want. Travis (good friend and fellow hunter and shooter) hand loads a 100-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip in his 25-06 and says it is an excellent performer on deer and hogs but cautions bullet placement on mature wild boars and large game with this bullet. Federal loads a 117-grain Sierra Boat-tail in their Premium line of ammo for the 25-06 and it seems to be a good one. I’ve sighted in a couple of 25-06’s for people using this load and it’s quite accurate. Recoil falls into the moderate range for both of these cartridges, and I have found the 25-06 Remington and the 270 Winchester to be much more comfortable to shoot than the 280 Remington or the 30-06 Springfield in the same weight rifle. In lightweight rifles such as the Winchester Featherweight or Remington Mountain Rifle the 270 is far more tolerable than the 280 or 30-06. If I had to choose between the two I would probably choose the 25-06 for my personal battery, although the 270 is would most likely be the better all around cartridge.

Hunting Bullet Guide – 260 Remington

The 260 Remington is another one of those cartridges spawned off of the 308 Winchester case, simply necked down to 6.5mm (.264). The cartridge has been around for some time as a wildcat, with Remington making it a factory-loaded cartridge 1997.

Performance is right up there with the 7mm-08 Remington. Recoil falls between the 243 Winchester and the 7mm-08 Remington being just slightly less than that of its 7mm cousin. In a rifle it is very comfortable to shoot. Making it one to consider for young people and lady hunters. Some say it’s a modern version of the 6.5mmx55 Swedish Mauser. This may be true but the 260 Remington has the advantage of fitting into a short action. Making it easier to chamber into lightweight and/or short barreled hunting rifles. My experience with the 260 Remington has mostly been with Remington’s XP-100R and factory ammunition. The loads I used were from Remington loaded with Nosler’s 120 Ballistic Tip and 125 Partition bullets. Accuracy was in the 1” to 2” range, which I found to be a pleasant surprise. In a rifle, with the same loads, accuracy was a little better (1” to 1 ˝”). A little time spent at the reloading bench and I’m sure groups could be improved. The 260 Remington should be just as easy to reload for as the 308 Winchester or the 7mm-08 Remington. There aren’t quite as many bullets to choose from in 6.5mm (.264) as there are in 7mm or 30 cal. but the one’s that are there seem to work just fine. 6.5mm bullets have high ballistic coefficients for their weight with good sectional density. This improves trajectory and down range performance over longer distances. It may be a little light for game larger than deer or antelope. Over time though it should prove to be one of the top short action cartridges for White-tailed deer. Personally I think it would be one to have in a lightweight rifle paired with a compact scope. This combination should be ideal for rattling or still-hunting in country where shots are in the 100-300 yard range.

Hunting Bullet Guide – 22 Hornet

The 22 Hornet has the distinction of being the first cartridge ever designed and produced exclusively for hunting varmints, small predators, and small game. Springfield Armory developed it around 1920 and paved the way for small-bore center-fire cartridges.

Ballistic Coefficient: 0.129
Product Symbol: X22H2
Description: Rapid expansion or fragmentation on impact. For Prairie dog, coyote, woodchuck.

Rifle Ballistics

Distance (yds)	Muzzle	50	100	200	300	400	500
Velocity (fps)	2690	–	2042	1502	1128	948	841
Distance (yds)	Muzzle	50	100	200	300	400	500
Energy (ft. lbs.)	739	–	426	230	130	92	72
Distance (yds)		50	100	150	200	250	300
Short Trajectory (in.)		+0.3	0.0	-2.4	-7.7	-16.9	-31.3
Distance (yds)	100	150	200	250	300	400	500
Long Trajectory (in.)	+1.6	0.0	-4.5	-12.8	-26.4	-75.5	-163.3

46 gr. Super-X® Hollow Point

Since it’s introduction many cartridges have come along with much more impressive ballistics than that of the 22 Hornet. When compared on paper to the 222 or 223 Remington the 22 Hornet’s numbers look somewhat dismal. Do not be fooled, paper ballistics do not show what the Hornet is capable of doing in the field. Muzzle velocity of the Hornet with a 45-grain bullet is only 2600-2800 fps. Most varmint hunters, myself included, like lightning fast velocity and laser beam trajectory. This type performance is what is need where targets are small and distances are 300 yards or more, but many varmints are taken well inside 150 yards. Varmint hunting is not always a long-range game, this is especially true when “calling” or hunting more settled areas. These situations are where the little 22 Hornet fits into the game and why, with a few other reasons, it has survived all this time. The 22 Hornet can easily take any varmint out to 200 yards. I’ve killed everything from Jackrabbits to Coyotes, and all sorts or critters in-between, with no problem. The Hornet has several advantages over other larger varmint rounds when used in its preferred hunting situations. One of which is minimal pelt damage even on small predators such as Grey Fox. The Hornet has much less muzzle blast than that the 223 Remington and similar rounds. The report is more like a loud “boom”, than a “crack” common with higher-pressure rounds. This is an advantage when hunting settled areas or at night (see note at end of article). The Hornet is a tiny little round making it possible to be chambered in small lightweight rifles like the Ruger M77/22 Hornet bolt-action or the Thompson/Center Contender (G-2) single-shot carbine. Browning also chambers the Hornet in their A-bolt Micro-hunter, which is a really fine little rifle. Even in these lightweight guns recoil is almost non-existent and the muzzle blast and report are still mild. These little rifles show their handiness when carrying a calling machine, spotlight, and battery pack, in addition to a rifle, when hunting varmints at night. Factory ammunition is readily available from Remington, Winchester, and Hornady. The Remington (45-grain) or the Winchester (46-grain) hollow-points are both good choices for varmints and small predators. Hornady offers a 35-grain V-Max bullet in a factory load as well as for hand loading. This bullet reaches a muzzle velocity of 3100 fps or so and should be a top performer on fox and other small predators. Hand loading for the 22 Hornet can be trying but with patience, quite rewarding. The 22 Hornet cases are not very durable and the necks are very thin so care should be taken during resizing and bullet seating not to crush the case. The thin necks also lend to case stretching. I recommend checking the overall case length each time the case is loaded. When reading this one might think the 22 Hornet is more trouble than it’s worth. Truth is, it’s not. These issues can be held to a minimum by neck-sizing the cases. Not only will this improve case life, and accuracy in most cases, but reduce neck stretching. Powder is something that the Hornet requires very little of to do it’s work. The best one’s I’ve used are WW296, H4227, and 2400. WW296 and H4227 are much cleaner than 2400 but 2400 is quite accurate. There is an array of bullets that will work for the Hornet. For my purposes the Sierra 40 and 45-grain Hornet (.224 dia.), the Hornady 45-grain Bee (.224 dia.), or the 35-grain V-Max, also from Hornady, are the bullets I would choose for hunting varmints with a magazine fed bolt-action. Hornady’s 45-grain Bee looks like a miniature version of their XTP handgun bullets and is super explosive. The 40-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip is also a good bullet but, when safely loaded, it’s overall length is to long to be fed form a magazine. It does work great in single-shots or fed one at a time into a bolt action. Loaded with a full metal jacket and the Hornet is and excellent round for wild turkey. Ranchers looking for a good round for a truck gun will find it in the 22 Hornet. All things considered the 22 Hornet performs as well as any varmint round out to 200 yards and in some cases even better.

NOTE: Hunting varmints at night is legal in Texas; however, some states do not allow hunting at night so be sure to check your local laws.

Hunting Bullet Guide – 220 Swift

The 220 Swift is one of the most awesome cartridges there is for hunting varmints and predators. Developed by Winchester in 1935 for their Model 54 bolt-action rifle. The 220 Swift was really ahead of its time. It was the first truly high velocity varmint cartridge.

Ballistic Coefficient: 0.175
Product Symbol: X220S
Description: Rapid expansion or fragmentation on impact. For Prairie dog, coyote, woodchuck.

Rifle Ballistics

Velocity (fps)	3870	–	3310	2816	2373	1972	1616
Distance (yds)	Muzzle	50	100	200	300	400	500
Energy (ft. lbs.)	1663	–	1226	881	625	432	290
Distance (yds)		50	100	150	200	250	300
Short Trajectory (in.)		-0.4	0.0	-0.4	-1.7	-4.1	-7.8
Distance (yds)	100	150	200	250	300	400	500
Long Trajectory (in.)	+0.8	+0.9	0.0	-2.0	-5.2	-16.7	-37.1

50 gr. Super-X® Pointed Soft Point

Winchester’s original load, a 48-grain bullet at the velocity the 220 Swift is capable of producing (4100 fps), was unheard of in 1935. With barrel quality be what it was in those days it earned the reputation of being a barrel burner. Coupled with unrealistic expectations as a game cartridge it’s popularity suffered. Fortunately barrel quality has improved greatly and hunters and shooters have realized it is best suited as a varmint/predator round. I have owned a 220 Swift in a Remington 700 VS for 7 years now and it still shoots as good today as it ever did. The 220 Swift is based on the 6mm Lee Navy case re-necked to 22 (.224) caliber. The only negative I’ve found with the 220 Swift, as with other high-velocity rounds, is cases are prone to stretching. On the positive side the little case is very durable and semi-rimmed. Being semi-rimmed allows the 220 Swift to be easily used in both single shot and bolt-action rifles. A little creative loading is required for bolt-action rifles. Stack the last loaded round’s rim in front of the previous round’s rim. When the bolt is cycled to load the next round that round’s rim is in front of the one’s below it. When this loading procedure is followed the 220 Swift will feed just as smooth through a bolt-action as any rim-less cartridge. This especially important when more than one coyote comes to your call! I have often heard that the 22-250 Remington performs every bit as well as the 220 Swift. From a coyotes point of view this statement is probably true. I’ve never had one tell me different. From a shooters and hand loaders point of view it’s a different story. With bullets 40 to 53-grains there is no noticeable difference. Using heavier bullets, 55 to 60+-grains, the 220 Swift will out perform the 22-250 Remington. These heavier bullets can reach as much as 200 fps or more over the same bullet in a 22-250 Remington. This added velocity results in a flatter trajectory, an inch or more in some cases. It seems the wind is always blowing and drift is a real issue with 22 caliber bullets. Bullets in the 55 to 60+-gains aren’t as affected by wind. This is good thing for small varmints and predators that do not offer much margin for error in judging distance and wind drift. Popularity of the 220 Swift is growing and with that so are the choices in factory ammunition. Remington’s “Premier Varmint” load with its 50-grain nylon tip bullet is the most accurate factory load I’ve used in my rifle. The little bullet performs well on everything form jackrabbits to coyotes. I took a Grey Fox with this load right after I bought my rifle. He was just a little over 100 yards looking strait at me. I hit him square in the chest. The little bullet disintegrated in his chest cavity killing him instantly with no exit wound. Hornady loads a 60-grain that works well on coyotes, but it seems to take a faster twist than a 1:14”, to get the really tight groups varmint hunters like to see. My rifle prefers a hand load consisting of Nosler’s 55-grain Ballistic Tip and Reloader 15 powder. This load will shoot groups in the .5” to .75” range at 100 yards from a solid rest. I used this load to take a nice Rio Grande Gobbler in the 2000 Texas Spring Turkey Season. I had watched him for almost an hour with a group of no less than a dozen hens. My efforts to call him away from them had failed. There was no way he was going to leave his little harem. Really, who can blame him? I tried several times to get a shot at him but I couldn’t get a good rest. As the group fed along ridge a long distance from me I was able to work my way though the Mesquite brush without being seen. Once in position for a solid rest I ranged the big Tom at 340 yards. I watched him though my scope until he turned facing me. I settled the cross hairs on his beak and squeezed off a shot. Hitting him in the neck just above his feathers. Over the past few years I’ve grown pretty fond of the 220 Swift. I’ve tried other rounds for my varmint and small game hunting in the past but I’ve always come back to my 220 Swift (affectionately referred to as “Thumper”).

Selecting a Scattergun That Meets Your Needs

How to Choose a Shotgun – Selecting the Action

The first thing a hunter needs to determine when choosing a shotgun is what action is best. The following is an overview of the terms and differences.

Many hunters start out by hunting upland game birds like grouse and pheasant. It follows that the first firearms purchase for many new hunters is a shotgun. With so many types, gauges, models, and price points on the market, how does a hunter without a lot of experience pick the right one? By setting a few basic parameters to narrow the search. A good place to start is the action.

Most shotguns fall into one of five basic categories – single shot, double barrel, pump action, bolt action, and semi-automatic. There is little difference until after the first shot is fired. The difference becomes readily apparent when a follow-up shot is required, a common occurrence with wing shooting.

Single Shot and Double-Barreled Shotguns

With a single shot firearm, the action must be opened manually, the spent shell casing ejected, a new shell loaded, action closed and weapon cocked and shouldered before a second shot can be fired. With practice, this takes mere seconds, but it can take a little longer for beginners.

A double-barreled shotgun is similar but allows two shots between reloading. Some have one trigger to fire both barrels in sequence, some have two triggers side-by-side and some have one trigger in front of the other. With many models, the choke or even the gauge differs between barrels, making one barrel better for close-up shots and one more effective as birds get farther away from the hunter. Two-barrel guns tend to be more expensive — some fancy skeet guns go for tens of thousands of dollars — but they are very popular with upland game hunters and with target shooters.

Both single-shot and double-barrel shotguns usually have a hinge break action. In other words, the hunter pushes a lever, and the gun “breaks” open, hinging at the base of the barrel or barrels. Both of these types of guns are very easy to clean and maintain, and a great starting point for young hunters because of their simplicity, safety, and reliability.

Pump Action and Bolt Action Shotguns

Pump action and most bolt action shotguns are repeaters (there are a few single shot bolt action models). In other words, after the first shot is fired the spent shell is ejected, the next shell chambered and the gun cocked in one smooth, quick motion by cycling the action. This involves moving the bolt or forestock backward and then forward again.

Pump guns are more common and a bit faster, since they remain at the shoulder while the action is cycled, whereas many hunters need to move from the ready position in order to cycle a bolt action. Both types of guns usually hold several shells, although some jurisdictions mandate how many can be placed in the gun at any given time. Bolt actions are easy to clean; the process is slightly more intricate with a pump action.

Semi-automatic Shotguns

Semi-automatic shotguns are the tool of choice for most serious waterfowl hunters. With these guns, the action is cycled automatically when a shell is fired, powered by either recoil inertia or the escaping gases. All the hunter needs to do to fire a second or third shot is to pull the trigger again. These types of guns are usually quite a bit more expensive than other types and require more attention to proper cleaning and maintenance. Cleaning and maintenance of a semi-automatic shotgun is somewhat more complicated again than a pump action.

Whether choosing the type of action or any of the other variables among shotguns, it is important to think about the ultimate use. Will it be a gun for hunting rabbits in the bush? For shooting pheasants over dogs? Ducks and geese from a blind? For skeet and trap competitions? Is cleaning and oiling an enjoyable part of owning a firearm, or a chore to be minimized? Giving thought to these aspects helps determine the most suitable action, which in turn narrows the field of prospective models.

Acorns Preferred Food of Whitetail Deer

Mast Crops Attract Deer

Deer hunters know that White Oak acorns attract foraging deer.

Dr. Leonard Lee Rue III, in his book, The Deer of North America, (Lyons Press, 1999) provides a detailed description of the dietary preferences and foraging habits of deer. Rue points out that deer, like cattle, are ruminants, with four-chambered stomachs. Ruminants are able to consume large quantities of low-protein foods quickly and then chew and digest them slowly. This permits deer to limit the amount of time when they must let down their guard against predators and feed in relatively open places.

During the summer months, deer forage on leaves and non-grass plants. When apples mature and drop to the ground, deer add fruit to their diets. They will also feed on farm crops, and suburban gardeners often wake to find that dining deer have devoured their plantings. However, according to Rue, deer will forsake most other food sources for their favorite food, the acorns of the White Oak.

White Oak and Red Oak Acorns Are Food for Deer

Although deer will eat Red Oak acorns, they much prefer those from the White Oak, as they contain less tannin and are less bitter in taste. Acorns are high in fat and carbohydrates, but low in protein. But, in years when the mast crop is plentiful, deer have no difficulty finding acorns in great enough quantities to provide adequate protein to their diets.

White Oak trees produce heavy crops only once every few years. Red Oaks, however, produce heavily every other year, effectively filling in when White Oak acorns are scarcer. Although deer prefer the sweeter White Oak acorns, they can readily digest other varieties.

Location and Quantity of Mast Crops Affect Deer Movement

After locating areas where White Oak acorns lie plentifully on the ground, the hunter must determine how deer will be likely to approach the feeding area. Deer are instinctively aware of their vulnerability while feeding, so they tend to feed, then take a few steps before putting their heads down to feed some more. The deer will prefer to face into the wind, in order to detect the scent of any predator that may approach.

Theories about what triggers the estrus cycle of do include the amount of sunlight, phases of the moon, and falling temperatures. The dropping of acorns to the ground, providing a boost of high-fat, high-carbohydrate nutrition, has also been put forth as a primary factor that sets the rut in motion. Once the rut is underway, bucks will enter the seeking phase, covering more territory and providing hunters with more opportunities for good shots at trophy deer.

Wildlife photographer and writer, Tommy Kirkland, writes in his article, “Deer’s Quality Nutrition: Hard Mast Consumption” (Ohio Valley Outdoors, November – December 2009) that “These high energy foods can really enhance the rut, causing a large number of females to be receptive to rut crazed bucks traversing the land.”

The image of “rut crazed bucks traversing the land” is enough to make any deer hunter eager to be up in the tree stand with bow or gun in hand. Scouting the territory and selecting a place with White Oak acorns on the ground might be the secret to getting a shot at the biggest, wariest deer in the woods.

What is a Mast Crop?

A mast crop is both a primary food for many organisms and fluctuates in availability from year to year. Graph 1 (Picture 2, adapted from “Evolutionary Ecology of Masting Trees”), shows that many tree species follow a coordinated boom or bust cycle where most trees bear an abundance of fruit in some years and almost none in others. The fruit of these trees forms a significant portion of the food for insects, large birds, and mammals.

The Recent History of Acorn Masting in the US

Although most locations in the US are finding a scarcity of acorns for 2008, Sacramento, CA is experiencing the heaviest acorn crop ever recorded there.

Table 1 (Picture 3) shows the locations and intensity of seed production during several recent years of acorn production. Most trees are only able to produce heavy crops one year at a time. Different oaks vary in the timing of boom years:

Black oak (Q. velutina) have an approximately two year cycle.
White oak (Q. alba), have a three year cycle.
Red oak (Q. rubra), have a four year cycle.

The timing of these cycles is not precise. They will sometimes take more or less time than indicated. Although most years have a moderate crop, in a few years most species might produce an abundance of seeds, while in other years very few will and the mast crop will fail to feed the consumers that depend on the seeds.

Since most species of seed predators specialize on a certain type of seed, the population of a maple predator can increase in a year of low acorn output if there had been an abundance of maple seeds that year. The maple predators will not affect acorns if the oaks produce a bumper crop of acorns when the maple predator population is high. The same holds true for acorn predators and maples. Of course, some seed predators (such as the Gray Squirrel, Sciurus carolinensis) are opportunists and not reliant on a single source of food.

Local Effects of a Bumper Acorn Crop

Carl Stamm, a retired wildlife manager, found in Connecticut, after a heavy acorn crop in the fall of 2007, turkeys, Meliagris galloparvus, and white-tailed deer, Oedocilus virginianus, were absent from gardens during the subsequent winter. Little wonder. They stayed in the woods feeding on acorns. Even though acorns were eaten in abundance, many were still on the ground in January. Unless they lived near chestnut oaks during the fall of 2008, southeastern Connecticut gray squirrels were scurrying around scrounging a few nuts here and there for storage.

How to Gauge Which Shotgun is Best

Determining the Best Bore for Your Hunting

Matching the gauge to your hunting needs is perhaps the single most important decision when buying your first shotgun, but it really comes down to a few basic questions.

As with other variables like the type of action, barrel length, stock material, or chambering, choosing the gauge of shotgun best suited for your style of hunting is mostly a matter of asking yourself how you intend to use it.

What Does Shotgun Gauge Mean?

The gauge assigned to a shotgun depends on the bore or the inside diameter of the barrel. It is expressed as the number of round balls of that diameter it would take to make one pound of lead. For example, with a 12 gauge shotgun, it would take 12 round lead balls the size of the bore to make a pound. With a 28 gauge shotgun, it would take 28 lead balls to make a pound.

The most common shotgun gauges are 10, 12, 16, 20, and 28. One size smaller than the 28 gauge is the .410, which is not truly a gauge at all but rather a caliber. The barrel diameter of a .410 is 41 hundredths of an inch. If it were expressed in terms of gauge, the .410 would be roughly a 67.5 gauge.

What Shotgun Gauge is Best for Which Game?

The 10 gauge shotgun is almost exclusively used in goose hunting. It is a heavy gun with a significant “kick” or felt recoil upon firing. For these reasons, and because many 12 gauge shotguns also make excellent goose guns, the 10 gauge is generally not a good choice for a first shotgun.

At the other end of the scale, the .410 is very light and has little felt recoil, and is in some ways a perfect “starter gun”. Many of those hunting today started out with a .410, and it makes a fine gun for small game such as grouse and rabbit. However, since hunters who start with these species often graduate to larger game, it is easy to outgrow this gun. There are much better options for larger animals, and some jurisdictions prohibit using a .410 for anything but small game.

The 16 and 28 gauge shotguns have an inherent problem in that they are not common enough for the ammunition to be commonly available. While most sporting goods stores carry some 16 and 28 gauge ammunition, a gun owner who runs out of shotshells while hunting in a remote rural area might have a difficult time finding these gauges. In addition, the 28 gauge is somewhat light for hunting anything other than small and upland game, although it is quite popular among skeet shooters.

The 12 gauge shotgun is perhaps the most versatile firearm available. It can be used with birdshot and 2-3/4-inch shells to hunt for small and upland game. It can be used with 3-inch or magnum 3.5-inch shells to hunt turkeys or waterfowl. It can be used with slugs or sabots to hunt big game out to 100 yards or better. Ammunition is comparatively cheap and readily available. However, it is heavier than most other gauges, and there is the issue of felt recoil, especially with the larger shells and more powerful loads.

The 20 gauge is the second most popular kind of shotgun and is also an excellent all-around gun. It is generally lighter than the 12 gauge, has less kick, and the ammunition is also widely available. While it might not be as suitable for hunting waterfowl or for the largest of game, it is in most respects as versatile as its larger cousin.

For hunters with specialized needs such as long-range shots for geese or varmint control on the farm, there are niche shotguns well suited to each of these tasks. However, for a multi-purpose gun suitable for a wide variety of games, the 12 gauge and 20 gauge are by far the most popular choices. The 12 gauge has long been the top seller by a wide margin due to its incredible versatility and effectiveness with larger games, but the 20 gauge has found a legion of devotees thanks to its reduced carry weight and recoil.

Choosing the Best Hunting Rifle

Determining the Right Caliber and Round When Buying a Rifle

There are hundreds of models of rifle available to hunters. The key is finding the caliber and cartridge that work best for the game and terrain you hunt.

Like fly rods, shotguns, or just about anything, the key to finding the right one for your needs is to ask some basic questions about how it will be used.

Matching Rifle to Type of Game Hunted

The starting point for determining the best rifle is to consider the game to be pursued. A rifle for rabbits or coyotes will be very different than a rifle for moose or mountain sheep. A rifle that is too powerful for a given animal will result in unnecessary recoil and loss of meat. A rifle that is not powerful enough to dispatch the animal quickly in normal hunting conditions and ranges is unethical and often illegal.

Rifle Calibers and What Those Numbers Mean

After deciding on the game to be pursued, the next step is to pick a caliber, which is the approximate diameter of the bullet expressed in inches or millimeters. There are numerous rifle calibers available, from “varmint” calibers like the .17 and .223 used for coyotes and prairie dogs, all the way up to the large rounds used for Africa’s dangerous game, such as the .375 and .458. Among the most popular calibers for whitetail deer are the .308, .270, 7mm and .30.

When there are two numbers in the cartridge name, such as .30-06, only the first number refers to the caliber. The second number can refer to several things. With some, like the .30-06, the second number refers to the year the cartridge was first available – 1906. Sometimes it means a new “wildcat” round was developed using the cartridge from the existing round, as in the case of the .25-06 – a .25 caliber round based on the .30-06 cartridge. The second number can also refer to the grains of black powder used in the original round, as in the case of the venerable .30-30.

There can be several different specific types of ammunition for each caliber, and these will generally include the name of the manufacturer that developed them, such as the .300 Winchester Magnum and the .30-06 Springfield.

Choosing the Best Caliber for Shot Distance

Another important consideration in choosing a rifle is the terrain in which it will be used. If most shots will be taken at 100 yards or less, a slug gun or a rifle with a larger, slower bullet such as the .30-30 Winchester or .35 Remington works very well. If the rifle is to be used over longer distances, 200 to 300 yards, then fast, “flat-shooting” rounds such as the .243 Winchester for deer or the .22-250 Remington for varmints are good choices. Cartridges like the .30-06 and .308 are excellent all-purpose rounds for large game.

Other Considerations When Choosing a Rifle

Once a hunter has determined the type of game to be hunted, the appropriate caliber and round, and the typical shooting distance, the rest becomes largely a matter of personal preference.

Bolt action guns are the most popular, but other types such as lever action and pump action have their devotees as well.

A longer, heavier barrel is better for longer shots, whereas a short-barrelled “brush gun” like the .30-30 is great for getting off quick shots in the woods.

Some hunters prefer the look and feel of natural wood stocks, while others prefer synthetics, which are less affected by temperature and humidity.

If the hunter is sensitive to recoil, that should be a consideration when choosing a rifle. Caliber isn’t always an accurate indicator of how much a rifle “kicks”.

Price is often an issue, and there are usually several good choices at each price point.

A good hunting rifle, properly cared-for, will provide years of faithful service and enjoyment. In many cases, they become treasured family heirlooms handed down from generation to generation.

Selecting a Professional Taxidermist in Texas

Choosing the Right Taxidermist Vital to Trophy Quality

Selecting a taxidermist to mount that big buck or stringer of lunkers is just as important as choosing the right hunting or fishing equipment. The ten-point buck is field-dressed and loaded for transportation. The angler is on the way in from the fishing hole with a live well full of big, beautiful bass. Both of these sportsmen plan to have their game mounted for display on their cabin walls. The choices they make about taxidermy will determine the quality and beauty of their resulting trophies.

Choosing the Taxideramzmist Before the Kill

According to professional taxidermist Paul Kantor, it is essential to select the person best qualified to mount that once-in-a-lifetime prize before the hunt or fishing trip begins. Kantor says that simply leaving the prize game with a guide to be mounted and shipped by an unknown taxidermist will almost certainly result in disappointment. “Think of this,” states Kantor, “someone’s going to inherit this mount one day.”

Questions About Taxidermy Training, Certification, and Licensing

The initial conversation should include inquiries about training, years of experience, certification, and licensing. Many books on taxidermy are available, prompting enthusiastic readers to give it a try. A professional taxidermist is far preferable to an amateur who will be practicing on customers’ trophies. Customers whose top criterion is cheap price risk for inferior results.

Questions About Taxidermy Methods and Materials

Animals can be preserved by tanning or by use of a dry preservative. Although some skilled professionals can get good results from dry preservatives, tanning generally gives better results with less risk of shrinkage. The quality of materials such as eyes, noses, skulls, and beaks make a huge difference in the lifelikeness of the finished products. Using high-quality forms and beaks will give more beautiful results. Ear liners provide better shape and stiffness. Some taxidermists offer only limited poses, while others are willing to pose the animal as the customer desires. Of course, better quality and wider choice result in higher prices, but the results are well worth the expense.

Satisfied Taxidermy Customers Are Happy to Give Referrals

The customer should ask the taxidermist for referrals. Ideally, these will be people so pleased with the taxidermist’s work that they will be happy to show off their trophies. The best advertisement is often word-of-mouth. Every person who sells a service knows that excellent work speaks for itself.

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Top-Notch Taxidermists Compete in Shows

Taxidermists who consider their work an art form are proud of what they produce, and they enter the best examples of their work in competitions. When choosing a taxidermist, it is a good idea to ask about participation in shows and competitions and any awards received.

Paying a Visit to the Taxidermist’s Shop

After narrowing down the choice to a few licensed, well-trained taxidermists with excellent reputations, it is time to visit the shops. The shop should be clean and professional in appearance. A strong odor of decay is a red flag, suggesting improper storage of game. The taxidermist should be proud to show the prospective customer examples of his or her work and discuss options for posing and mounting game.

Careful Selection of Taxidermist Results in Natural, Artistic Trophies

Diligent research and comparison allow the sportsman or woman to take that big buck or stringer of lunkers to a carefully selected taxidermist. Knowing that the taxidermist is a licensed, trained, professional artist, the hunter or angler can anticipate the day when the beautifully preserved and posed game will hang on the cabin wall for all to admire.